Surfing Hall of Fame
In March 2007 I was stoked by being inducted into Australia’s Surfing Hall of Fame. The previous years inductee Layne Beachley presented me with the award and on hand were previous “Hall of Famers” Wayne Bartholomew, Simon Anderson, Peter Townend, Wayne Deane, Phyllis O’Donell, Layne and Peter Troy (shown in photo left to right)Surfing Hall of Fame Induction (right) The photo to the righy is some of my invited mates; Adrian Esposito, Greg Sterling, Chris Tricklebank, Glen Thompson, Gerhard “Sloth” Thill, Cheyne and Stephen Horan, Dave Boyce, Laurie “Loz” Baker and Rob Schaefer. See this .pdf for a list of all of the Australian Surfing Hall of Fame inductees and here is the .pdf for the 2007 winners profiles. Thank-you for the honour – Cheyne.
THE BIGGEST SURF
This particular day we were the first surfers out and rode the first waves ridden on the legend session of our lives. We looked from the mountains for 2 hours from dawn onward checking the totally maxed out seas. I finally asked Sammy Hawke (my tow-in partner) “Do you want to get us out on the jet-ski” He said “No, you drive Cheyne” (gulp) Mountains of whitewater filled the horizon at 60 feet plus, the ground was shaking as the waves crashed towards the shore. We ventured out slowly from the shore and as we got to the last line of waves a 60 to 80 foot wave, the biggest wave I’ve ever seen confronted us just as it was about to close-out. We screamed like Indians running into a massacre, the wave began to pitch as we accelerated at full…